Stop me if you’ve heard this one before.
You’ve just spent a half an hour stenciling a design onto a gorgeous piece of stained wood with a vinyl stencil.
Finally finished, you pull up the stencil to reveal… PAINT BLEEDS.
Augh! So annoying!
But never fear, I’m here to teach you my method for getting crisp, clear lines, every single time.
Bleeds happen!
First, you need to understand that bleeds will happen, no matter what.
The trick for crisp lines when stenciling is to get your bleeds to be a color that will actually blend in with the background of your wood.
If you’ve painted your wood background, no problem, just use your background paint color.
If you’ve stained your wood, just use a paint color that’s pretty close to your stain color. In this tutorial, I’m using just cheap $.50 Apple Barrel paint.
Required Items:
- Your piece of wood/sign with your background prepainted or stained and fully dry
- Vinyl stencil (Wash – Dry – Fold design available here)
- Painter’s tape (I prefer Frog Tape)
- Craft Paint (I’m using cheap acrylic Apple Barrel type paint)
- The color(s) for your lettering/design
- The color that matches (ish) the background color of your sign
- Makeup Sponges (I get a pack at the dollar store)
- Weeding tools (specifically, tweezers, a pin, and scissors)
Step 1: Position Your Stencil
I’ve got my stencil positioned and rubbed down as well as I can. Burnish that baby as hard as you can!
If you have problems centering your stencil (this can be tough on bigger signs) you can check out my guide on how to perfectly center vinyl stencils onto signs.
I didn’t in the photo, but if your stencil doesn’t cover all the edges, you’ll want to cover it with masking tape. I like Frog tape the best – it seems to have a smoother texture that adheres better than the blue painter’s tape.
For this project I’m using some leftover Oracal 651 but I do prefer to use Oramask 851 stencil vinyl.
Step 2: Seal The Stencil
First, grab your paint that matches (closely) the color of your background. In my case, I used the wet rag method to “stain” my board with regular craft paint, and then I’m using that same color to seal with.
(yes, a tutorial on the wet rag method will be coming soon!)
First, I want you to VERY CAREFULLY and VERY LIGHTLY sponge on some of your background paint.
See how lightly I mean? SUPER light.
This makes it so that when the stencil bleeds a bit, it will bleed that color that blends in with the background, NOT your final stencil color.
I like to do 2-3 VERY light coats of this color, allowing the paint to barely set between coats. When paint is “set” it isn’t shiny anymore, but is not completely dry.
Note: many people use Mod Podge for this step. I generally do not recommend this, because Mod Podge often will pull up paint with it when you remove the stencil (so, it’s like the opposite of the bleeds).
That is not a good way to get crisp lines when stenciling with vinyl!
Step 3: Stencil Your Design
Now, you can take a new sponge, and with your actual lettering color (in my case, the white), start sponging on more very very light coats of paint.
Again, you’ll want to wait until each coat of paint is barely set but not fully dry before coating it again.
I generally do quite a few of these (sometimes up to 10). Because I do them so lightly, usually by the time I am finished with one coat, the other end of the sign is already dry enough for me to start with another coat.
Step 4: Remove Your Stencil
At this point, when your paint is set but again still not completely dry, you will want to begin removing your stencil.
You don’t want to wait for the paint to completely dry because it is more likely to come up with the stencil if you do.
Start at one corner and go very slowly to make sure you don’t mar your paint. Go against the grain as much as you can (so, sideways to it) to avoid the chance of wood splinters coming up from under the vinyl.
I use a pin to loosen up tiny bits and then grab the rest with my tweezers (My fav is the gooseneck tweezers in the weeding kit from US Cutter).
Your stencil lines will be sharp,crisp and beautiful, with a gorgeous contrast.
Note: You may also find it helpful to have scissors handy to cut off bits of your stencil as you go, depending on how large and unwieldy your stencil is.
Step 5 – Admire Your Crisp Stencil Lines
Voila! You have just mastered the art of getting crisp lines when stenciling with vinyl and your project looks FAAAAABULOUS!!
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This is Awesome! Thanks for sharing!
Thank you for the tips on preventing bleeding and for the awesome free file!
This looks really good and makes perfect sense! Thank you.
You’re the best, thanks!
This is wonderful! I have only done a few stencils because I am so nervous about bleeding. I have been pretty successful but this method looks perfect. Thanks!
Seriously, this is awesome! I’ve tried similar techniques with varying results. I’m anxious to try this out, but past experience says this is a winner. 🙂
What material did you use for the stencil?
Everything you do is top notch. How is that possible?
Thank you for such kind words! I used some old Oracal 651 although it’s not ideal, I usually prefer to use Oramask 813 but I was all out.
what is your favorite transfer tape ?
Hi Karen!
The quick answers are – I like AT65 tape and I buy my stencil vinyl from Swing Design, Expressions Vinyl or US Cutter. I’ve got tons more information here on my Vinyl Cutting Resources page.
Thanks!
also i have been searching your site and reading and i can’t seem to locate where you purchase your oracle 851 stencil vinyl from.
PS – I so love your work.
This is a Great Tutorial. I can’t wait to try. I Love this idea!
Thank you. I will Try your stenciling advice very soon.Yours so so very nice ,clean and crisp as you said it would. I have done a couple but yous were beautiful.
Thanks I love clean lines also. Can’t wait to try this! Laurie
YOU HAVE JUST BECOME, MY HERO!!!!!! Thank you !!
THANK YOU THANK YOU THANK YOU!!!!!!!!! For as long as I have been searching for a tutorial about clean lines, I FINALLY FOUND A SOLUTION!!!!!! Yours!
Have I thanked you yet!!?
I am going to try my hand at a small booth in our little coastal town this summer!
Thanks to you, I have the confidence to do it!
NOW I just have to figure out how to build frames~~ =)
Oh I’m so glad I could be helpful for you! Let me know how it turns out 🙂
Have you posted the wet rag method, I was looking but no luck finding it.
No I haven’t! Good idea for a tutorial though! I’ve tried a couple different ways and TBH my most favorite is just to dilute some acrylic craft paint and dip a rag into it and use it as “stain.” You may have to play with proportions a bit, but I got the most consistent results with that method.
Thanks great idea why’s the font used
Great sign! Any recs on where to find borders or accents for signs? Cricut site was very limited or I am looking in the wrong areas. Thanks!!
Hi James!
Yes! I have a set available here: https://bit.ly/2FWS1yV and you can also look on Etsy and So Fontsy for lots of great digital SVG embellishments for designing your own projects.
Thanks!!
Bethany you are so gifted and I love your cuts. They are great.
Thank you!!
Help!! What stain do you use on your boards? I am having trouble with my vinyl stencils not sticking to the board. I’m so frustrated!
Hey Donna! I love to use diluted paint as “stain” but if you’re using a regular oil-based stain it can cause problems. Usually a quick coat of poly sealer (like polycrylic or even just a generic poly spray) will give it a better surface to stick to.
Can you use stain instead of paint on the first few steps? It looks like your board was stained so am just curious how you find paint to match the color of your stain.
No, most stains won’t work very well for this. SOme of them will even mess up the stencil but even if they don’t, they are too thin to provide a good barrier for the sealing step. I like to use diluted paint as my “stain” for this reason, so that I have a matching paint color to do the sealing with. You can also, if you use regular stain, just find a regular plain paint color that’s pretty close and you’ll be okay.
Could you go over it with a layer of the stain you used or do you need to go over it with a layer of paint?
Hi Lita! I don’t think that would work, but it depends on the stain you use. Many stains have chemicals in them that might start messing up the stencil to begin with, and overall stains are just too thin to really provide a good barrier for this. Might be worth a try! But I think you’d have the best luck with a water based stain if you do try. That’s why I use diluted paint as my “stain.”
Instead of trying to match a paint color to the stained wood, you could use a matte varnish or sealer. It will do the same thing.
It could, but some stains and varnishes and whatnot will mess up the stencil itself, causing wrinkling and stuff. if it’s water-based, it might work. Some people use Polycrylic for that step, but it tends to pull up paint with it when you take off the stencil so then you have unintentionally distressed and patchy lettering.
Wow. I think you may have just solved a huge problem I’ve been having!! I’ve been modpodging my stencils first and then applying paint but it’s been pulling up the paint when I remove my stencil! So frustrating!!
Ahh yes, Mod Podge is NOTORIOUS for doing that!
I love this! My stencils ALWAYS BLEED! Can you tell me what you use to make your stencils? Great work!
In this tutorial I’m using Oracal 651 but I usually use 851, but really any permanent vinyl will do the trick.
Just Mod Podge the stencil and then paint
I actually don’t recommend Mod Podge, it tends to pull up the paint with it when you remove the stencil. I imagine there’s probably a trick to it, but I’ve heard so many people say the same that I generally tell people to stay away from that method.
Thank you for your tips and mentioning the issues with mod podge. I’ve been using Mod Podge with Oracle stencil vinyl and some times I have perfect luck while other times, my painted letters would peel up. I couldn’t figure out why. Searched online and most blogs/tutorials posted many problems to the background paint being pulled up, but my problem was actually happening to the letters.
Yeah it’s hard to know sometimes! Especially since temperature and humidity and wood quality and all sorts of things can be a factor as well.
This method is awesome! I have made several signs and they turned out beautifully. Can’t wait for the wet rag method of “staining” with paint!
Can you please tell me the name of that font I just love it
Thank you for such a thorough tutorial. I want to know if you just stain the wood, do you need to seal it and paint over it or you paint right over the stain? Here is the stain I used so you know what I’m talking about. https://images.app.goo.gl/eaStuW753R2NBkco7
I would appreciate your advice.
Thank you so much.
Popi
I love the app. Very good detail. I,m going to tell all my friends about this one.
How do you “stain” with diluted paint. Can you do a tutorial on that? lol
Bethany hi,
thanks for the tips they are great for those of us new to wood stencilling. I have some beautiful natural live edge wood that I want to use but keep the natural color, what would you suggest to put on before stenciling to stop the bleeding. I’d hate to ruin these boards.
thanks,
THANK YOU from heart.
Can i use the same method of structure paste, I mean the few coats of basic color and then a one time structure paste? I tried all what you can imagine and with the temporary glue but still it bleeds in some places 🙁
Thank you in advance for your time and help.
Maha
I can’t thank you enough for sharing your wisdom! This worked perfectly for our daughter’s bourbon barrel top wedding guest book sign! She and her fiancé love it.